Most home solar goes on the roof, but panels can also go on a ground rack, a carport, a pergola or a detached garage, and if no spot works you can subscribe to community solar instead. The right spot gets unshaded sun most of the day, sits on a structure built for the load, has a short, safe wiring route to your electric panel, and is property you control and can get permitted. South-facing roofs produce the most, but east and west roofs are often still worth quoting: in a federal PVWatts model for Atlanta they produced 12–13% less than a south roof.
Roof, ground, carport or community solar: how they compare
Location | Works best when | Extra work or cost | Watch for |
|---|---|---|---|
Roof of the house | A south, east or west roof plane is mostly unshaded, in good condition and big enough after fire-access setbacks | Usually the lowest cost, because the roof is the structure | Roof age, framing, shade from trees and chimneys, and space lost to required pathways |
Ground mount | The roof is shaded, small, complex or due for replacement, and you have open, sunny land | Foundations or driven posts, trenching and longer wiring. EnergySage’s 2026 marketplace averages were $2.96 per watt for ground-mounted systems versus $2.60 for home systems overall | Zoning setbacks, easements, buried utilities, drainage, and mowing around the array |
Carport, pergola or solar trellis | You want shade or covered parking and have room near the house | A new engineered structure with footings; often a longer wire run | Vehicle clearance, drainage, and whether your insurer covers it as a separate structure |
Detached garage or shed | Its roof faces the sun better than the house roof and its framing is sound | Structural check; trenching back to the main panel | Roof condition and whether the panel or service can accept the connection |
Community solar (no panels on your property) | No spot on the property works, or you rent or own a condo | No installation; you pay a subscription and receive bill credits | Availability: DOE counts at least one project in 44 states and localities including DC, 24 with enabling laws. Read fees and exit terms. |
Ground-mount prices are a marketplace average, not a quote, and the average ground system in that sample was larger (14.7 kW versus 12 kW), so compare per-watt figures. For current installed prices in your state, see the cost of solar panels.
A roof works when five conditions line up
- Sun: the usable roof planes get unshaded sun through most of the day across the year, after trees, neighboring buildings, chimneys and vents are accounted for. Ask for a shade report on your actual roof rather than a rule of thumb.
- Condition and age: the roof has no leaks or damage and will not need replacing while the panels are on it. The Department of Energy says to consider how long until the roof needs replacement and notes it can save money to install solar at the same time as a new roof. DOE also expects a solar array to last about 25 years, so compare the roof’s remaining life with how long the panels will stay up. If they will need to come off for a reroof, plan for removal and reinstallation.
- Structure: the framing and attachments can carry the array plus local wind, snow and seismic loads. The permit review checks this.
- Space after setbacks: fire-access pathways take part of the roof. Under the model residential code (2018 IRC R324.6, quoted in a Boise building-department policy), a house needs at least two 36-inch pathways from eave to ridge, and an 18-inch clear strip on both sides of the ridge, widening to 36 inches if panels cover more than 33% of the roof’s plan area. Homes with fire sprinklers, low-slope roofs and local alternatives can differ; your installer applies the version your city or county adopted. To estimate how many panels you need, see how many solar panels you need.
- Electrical route: wiring can reach the main panel safely, and the panel can accept the connection or be upgraded.
DOE says panels typically perform best on south-facing roofs with a 15- to 40-degree slope, though other roofs may be suitable too. A solar installer, roofing expert or structural engineer can assess yours (DOE Homeowner’s Guide to Solar; DOE step-by-step guide).
How much does roof direction matter?
An example from the PVWatts calculator of the National Laboratory of the Rockies (formerly NREL), run on October 14, 2026 for a 6 kW system in Atlanta, Georgia, with default 14% losses:
Layout | Modeled annual output | Compared with south roof |
|---|---|---|
South roof, 20° pitch | 8,410 kWh | Baseline |
East roof, 20° pitch | 7,377 kWh | 12% less |
West roof, 20° pitch | 7,295 kWh | 13% less |
North roof, 20° pitch | 6,030 kWh | 28% less |
South ground rack, 30° tilt | 8,505 kWh | 1% more |
This is a model for one city, not a forecast for your home. Results change with latitude, roof pitch, shade and equipment. The point it shows: an east or west roof is often still worth quoting, a north roof is a harder case, and a ground mount mainly pays off when it escapes shade or a poor roof, not because ground racks produce much more on their own. Run your own address in PVWatts or ask each installer for modeled output by roof plane.
A ground mount trades roof limits for land work
A ground array can sit in the sunniest part of the yard and face due south at the best tilt. It still needs a designed foundation or driven posts, local setback and height compliance, a buried-utility check, trenching and an electrical connection.
A ground mount may fit when
- the roof is shaded, small, complex or nearing replacement;
- you have enough open, unshaded land;
- zoning setbacks from property lines and roads allow it; and
- the trench to the house is a practical length.
Check before choosing it
- property lines, easements and underground services (call 811 before digging);
- soil, slope, drainage and flood zone;
- trees that will grow into the array’s sun;
- fencing or equipment-clearance rules; and
- the trenching and foundation line items in the quote.
DOE’s PV system design basics notes every array needs a stable, durable mount that withstands wind, rain, hail and corrosion. A ground mount is still a permitted, inspected installation.
Carports, pergolas and garages can be a second roof
A detached garage or existing carport may work if its framing and roof are sound and you own it. A new solar carport, pergola or trellis gives shade or covered parking while producing power, but adds footings, clearance and drainage design and often a longer wire run. One advantage: the model code’s roof-access pathways do not apply to detached, nonhabitable structures such as garages, carports and solar trellises, so more of the surface can hold panels.
For each structure, check:
- ownership and any HOA or lease rules;
- structural capacity and attachment method;
- zoning, building and electrical permits;
- distance to the main panel and the trench route;
- whether the main panel can accept the connection; and
- insurance: a detached structure may fall under a different part of your homeowners policy than the house. See does home insurance cover solar panels.
If you rent, own a condo or live in a manufactured home
The first question is who controls the surface and the electric meter, not which way the roof faces.
Situation | First question | Detailed guide |
|---|---|---|
Renter | Is the electric bill in your name, and is community solar open in your utility area? Rooftop panels need the owner. | |
Apartment or condo owner | Is the roof a common element, and which meter would the panels serve? | |
House in an HOA | Does your state’s solar-access law limit what the association can restrict? | |
Manufactured or mobile home | Can the roof structure carry panels, and do you control the lot for a ground mount or carport? | |
Metal roof | What roof profile, condition and attachment system apply? | |
Balcony or patio | Is a listed plug-in system allowed by your state, utility, lease and building rules? | |
Tight budget or lower income | Do you qualify for an income-based or community-solar program, and is a “free” offer really financing? |
Ask bidders to price the same locations
Have each installer mark the proposed array on a plan of your property and provide:
- system size in DC kilowatts and the panel count per roof plane or ground row;
- first-year production estimate by location, with shade and loss assumptions;
- structural, foundation or trenching work;
- roof attachment and flashing method;
- permit, zoning and utility interconnection scope;
- equipment and workmanship warranties; and
- total price, with site-specific work listed separately.
PVWatts estimates energy only. It does not approve the structure, property rights, permit or grid connection.
Can solar panels go on a north-facing roof?
Yes, but output is lower. In the Atlanta PVWatts example above, a 20° north roof produced about 28% less than a south roof; steeper north roofs and northern states lose more. Compare its modeled output and price per kWh with any other surface you have.
Can I install panels myself?
A grid-connected system still needs a code-compliant design, a permit, inspection and the utility’s approval before it runs, and some places require a licensed electrician for the connection. Check with your city or county and utility before buying equipment. See solar permits and inspections.
What if no location on my property works?
Community solar gives bill credits from an off-site array where an eligible program operates. Compare the discount, fees, cancellation and moving terms before you sign.
Get a plan for at least two feasible locations
Mark the roof planes, open land and structures you control. Ask installers to model each feasible option with the same electricity use, then compare production, site work, approvals and total price. If the roof needs work within the next several years, price the reroof first.
